🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary honour.